Pulikali (puli means leopard and kali means play) is a dance performed by men adorning the costume of leopard. It is performed in different parts of Kerala during the festival of Onam. Yet, the one that is performed in Thrissur district is quite old. From children to elderly people take part in Pulikali. The performer will be wearing masks of leopard face and body painted in black and yellow. Leopard faces are also drawn on bellies.
The group comprises predominantly male leopards with few female and child leopards. Since wearing masks, there is no significance for facial expressions. Men with potbellies shake it and dance, which is real fun to watch.
It is enough for one to try and understand the many festive occasions in Kerala in order to get familiar with Kerala’s history, culture and heritage. And the festival of Onam is a grand event for Keralites.
There is a myth behind Onam. Long time ago, Kerala was ruled by a demon king by the name of Mahabali, who had conquered all the three worlds. He always cared for the welfare of his subjects, the fame of which envied the gods and lessened their significance. The gods sought the help of Lord Vishnu for regaining their glory and significance. Lord Vishnu agreed to their request. He took the form of Vaamana (a dwarf Brahmin) and requested King Mahabali to grant 3 foot of land for meditation purpose. As Vaamana began to measure, he assumed a massive form and measured two foot of Mahabali’s kingdom and asked him about the third. To this, Mahabali lowered his head and Vaamana placed his foot on his head and was sent to the nether world. The opportunity granted to Mahabali by Vaamana to visit his subjects once a year is celebrated as Thiruvonam, the most auspicious day of the Onam festival.
Onam also heralds the New Year for Malayalees. It is also the harvest festival of the State, starting from Atham asterism and concluding on the Thiruvonam asterism. The ten-day festival is marked by floral carpets (pookalam) at households, giving of new clothes (onakodi) and grand traditional feast (onasadya).
During Onam people engage in various entertainments. Boat race (vallam kali) is one of them, the thrill of which is to finish first by singing vanchi pattu (song of the boat). Boat races are confined to southern districts of Kerala like Alappuzha, Kottayam and Pathanamthitta.
Thiruvathirakali, also known as Kaikottikali, is a women’s group dance, quite popular during Onam.
Atham asterism in the Malayalam month of Chingam (August / September) marks the beginning of the ten-day Onam festivities in Kerala. As per mythology, Onam festival is a commemoration of the prosperous period of King Mahabali’s rule in Kerala and it also marks his visit to Kerala for seeing his subjects. It is also celebrated as a harvest festival. Athachamayam is celebrated on the Atham day at the historical town of Tripunithura, near Kochi. It is a celebration of a legendary victory of the Raja of Kochi. Pomp and colour mark the pageantry. Caparisoned elephants, varieties of folk art forms, floats and musical ensemble add splendor to the chamayam.
If Onam is the number one festival of Keralites, Vishu takes the second spot. It comes on the first day of the Malayalam month Medam (April), which is also the Spring Equinox, when the duration of day and night are equal.
On the day of Vishu, seeing the Vishukanni (offerings placed in prayers rooms at homes and and in front of deities in temples) as the first thing in the morning is believed to be the harbinger of the year’s prosperity and good luck. The offerings comprise flowers of golden shower (kani konna) tree, vegetables, fruits, traditional lamp, metal mirrors, coins, rice, holy text etc. placed inside a metal vessel called uruli. A lighted bell metal lamp called nilavilakku is also placed alongside. Giving of handsel (kaineettam) by an elderly person in the family to younger members is an integral part of the celebrations.
Thrikkadavoor is a small town located on the banks of the Ashtamudi backwater in Kollam district. It is about 5 km from Kollam town. The Sree Mahadeva temple is an ancient temple situated in the village of Thrikkadavoor and is the most prominent of Shiva temples in the district. The annual ten-day festival of the temple is a splendid celebration attended by thousands of people. The highly devotional Thiruvathira festival and the resplendent kettukazha add to the charm of the festival.
There is an interesting legend attributed to the origin of the temple, which is now administered by the Travancore Devaswom. Sage Mrikandu and his wife were saddened as they did not have a child. Once Lord Siva appeared before them and gave two options. One was to have a short-living intelligent boy and the other to have a long-living idiot. The couple selected the former and was blessed with a baby boy who would live for 16 years. They named him Markandeya.
Young Markandeya was an ardent devotee of Lord Siva. At the age of 16, on his last day, he sat immersed in prayers in front of a Lord Siva idol. The divine mood deterred the messenger of Yamaraja (the God of death) from taking Markandeya's life. Later, Yamaraja took up the task and sprung the noose aiming the boy's neck. Unfortunately, the noose fell over the Sivalinga which angered Lord Siva. The furious god entered into a war with Yama which the former won. In the end of the battle, Lord Siva laid the condition to spare the life of his devout Markandeya for not killing Yamaraja. Mythology says that Thrikkadavoor was where this event occurred.
Elephants are an integral part of Kerala culture. It is the presence of richly adorned elephants that gives a majority of the traditional festivals of Kerala a touch of grandeur and glory.
Aanayoottu at the Vadakkumnathan Temple in Thrissur district is a ritualistic feeding ceremony (locally known as Aanayoottu) that takes place inside the premises of the famous temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva.
On the festival day the elephants are brought inside the premises of the Vadakkumnathan Temple for the special feast. Here, the elephants are lined-up in a single row and facing them would be thousands of people ready with offerings in their hands to feed the elephants. Sugarcane, rice, ghee, coconut, jaggery and Ayurvedic medicines are the major ingredients of the special feed for the elephants.
This ceremony is also rooted in the belief that Lord Ganesha, the elephant-faced God, who removes obstacles in one's life will be appeased if elephants are worshipped and given healthy, delicious food.
One of the largest vegetarian feasts in India, the Aranmula Vallasadhya is a ritual offering to the deity Lord Parthasarathy. In this ritual the oarsmen of the snake boats are offered a feast. The feast has over 70 dishes. This event that stretches to more than two hours combines ritual offerings, sports and music. The feast is made more enjoyable, amusing and interesting with the oarsmen performing special songs for the feast beginning by praising Lord Parthasarathy of Aranmula. As the feast progresses their songs become more playful and include demands of specific dishes that they wish to be served.
Neelamperoor Patayani is a spectacular event that takes place at the Neelamperoor Palli Bhagavathy temple in the district of Alappuzha. Though Patayani is performed in a number of other temples in Kerala, the one held at Neelamperoor is entirely different from others. It comes in the Malayalam month of Chingam (August / September). The word patayani literally means row of warriors. The event is a riot of colours, fervent devotion and festivity.
Massive effigies of swans and other legendary characters are brought in procession. The making of the effigies of the swans is locally known as annamkettu.
The annual Kottiyoor festival in Kannur district is a festival jointly held by two temples viz. Akkare Kottiyoor and Ikkare Kottiyoor, located on either side of the Bavali River in a dense forest. This 28-day festival falls during the months of May and June. Beginning with the neyyattam ritual on the first day and the thirukalasattu ritual on the concluding day are the highlights of this festival.
Lord Shiva, the deity of Akkare Kottiyoor temple is considered as a swayambhoo lingam (self-created idol). There is no formal structure of a temple here at the Akkare Kottiyoor temple. Prayers and offerings are done here only during the festival days.
Unlike all other temples, the deity at the Poruvazhi Malanada Temple is Duryodhana, the antagonist of the Indian epic Mahabharata. Another striking feature of this temple is the fact that the temple doesn't have either an idol or a sanctum sanctorum.
A spectacular event that is a part of this temple is called Malanada Kettukazcha. It is a one-day festival celebrated in the month of March. A fascinating sight in which decorated structures are taken out to the accompaniment of traditional orchestra of drums, the procession attracts scores of people every year. Some of these decorated structures made in a competitive spirit by the people of the surrounding villages are 70 to 80 ft tall. The structures are either carried on the shoulders or taken out on chariots. The sheer grandeur of this procession is what has earned it its repute and fame.
The annual festival – Ezhara Ponnana - at the Ettumanoor Sree Mahadeva Temple in Kottayam is a popular and historic one. The Ezhara Ponnana procession is a major ritual. The story of Ezhara Ponnana is linked to the king’s rule. Ezhara means seven-and-a-half and Ponnana means golden elephant. Made of wood and covered in gold, each of the seven elephants is two feet high and the eighth one is of one foot only. Hence they are together called seven-and-a-half elephants.
Witnessed on the eighth and tenth day of the festival at Ettumanoor is the Ezhara Ponnana procession, which is grand sight to behold.
The annual festival at the Sree Kurumba Bhagavathy temple situated at Kodungallur in Thrissur district is known as the Kodungalloor Bharani. It takes place in the Malayalam month of Meenam.
Majority of the people that take part in the festival are from the northern regions of Kerala, collectively called as Kadatha Nadu. The rituals at the temple are believed to have originated from the ancient ties between Kodungallur and the region under the Chera rule that also had their second capital – Thondi.
Specialities
Kaavu Theendal (defiling of the sacred grove), hoisting of festival flag without rituals, kozhikkal moodal (covering of hen stone), ceremonies performed by a fisherman called Palakka Velan are the festival specialities.
Aswati kaavu theendal is the most important of rituals. On the day of Meena Bharani there are no celebrations in the temple. All festivities start from the day of festival flag hoisting, which is on the day of Bharani asterism in the Malayalam month of Kumbham till Aswathi asterism in the month of Meenam. The ceremony jointly performed by the goodhearted Veeraasaari and Malayan Thattan is an important one. Thattan will ring the handheld bell and defile the temple premises by circumambulating it. This is followed by the sanctification of the temple by the Moothanmars of Plappilli ancestral house. The tying of flags on banyan trees and minarets around the temple mark the beginning of the period of Bharani. Songs featuring vulgar and obscene words are sung by devotees, who come from places like Wayanad, Kannur, Thalassery and Palakkad.
Kaavu Theendal
Kaavu Theendal takes place on the Aswathi asterism. Towards noon, by 11 o’clock, the northern entrance to the temple will be closed and no one is allowed to enter the temple. After the mid-day offerings, a secret offering called Aswathi pooja is also done. After removing all ornamental adornments from the idol of Goddess Bhagavathi, sandal paste is applied. The oracles taking part in Kaavu Theendal will gather in the courtyard of the Vadakedath Mutt, situated on the eastern side of the kaavu (grove).
After the temple is opened, the ruler of Kodungallur Kovilakom is welcomed by devotees and the officials of the temple. After drinking tender coconut juice given to the ruler by Paalakka Velan, the ruler will order the namboothiri to lift the silk parasol. Paalakka Velan will be the first to do the kaavu theendal (defiling of grove). This is followed by defiling of the kaavu by oracles and devotees, who will also hit the temple rafters with wooden sticks. And they circumambulate the temple three times.
Bharani Paattu (Bharani Song)
The kaavu theendal ceremony is held amid songs of devotion and those that feature vulgar and obscene words.
The Chettikulangara temple situated in Mavelikkara taluk of Alappuzha district is renowned for its annual Bharani festival. The temple is dedicated to Goddess Bhagavathy. The festival begins on the Bharani asterism in the Malayalam month of Kumbam).
The main rituals of the festival are kuthiyottam and kettu kazhcha. Kuthiyottam features circumambulation of young boys who have observed rigorous ritual penance. Kettukazhcha (kettu means ‘put together’ and kazhcha means ‘spectacle’). Effigies of 100 ft high bulls are built and are brought to the temple, accompanied by musicians playing the chenda (traditional percussion) and Ila Thaalam (cymbals). The bull effigies circumambulate the temple and later take positions on one side of the temple.
A renowned pilgrim centre atop the rugged hills of the Western Ghats, the holy Sabarimala Temple is dedicated to Lord Ayyappa. The main pilgrimage is undertaken between November and January. Devotees undergo rigorous penance before starting on the pilgrimage. Regardless of caste, creed and colour they wear black or deep blue dhoties (traditional Kerala wear for men) and carry on their heads, cloth bundles containing traditional offerings like coconuts filled with ghee, camphor and rice. When it comes to female devotees only females who are past their menopausal age or have not attained puberty are allowed into the precincts of the shrine of the Lord who is considered to have remained unmarried.
Kadammanitta, a village 8 km away from Pathanamthitta is famous for its annual Patayani festival held in the premises of the Devi temple. The five-day festival commences on the first day (pathaamudayam) of the Malayalam month of Medam (April). The festival marks the victory of Goddess Kaali over the demon Daarika and is noted for its traditional orchestra and dance.
The Kottankulangara temple in Chavara, near Kollam, is renowned for its unique festival. Here, hundreds of men dress up as beautiful women and come to the temple at night, holding the chamaya vilakku (make-up lamp). This is a kind of offering to the presiding deity of the temple - Goddess Bhagavathy. This ritual attracts a great number of people.
A festival that entered the Guinness records for being the largest single gathering of women for a religious activity, Attukal Pongaala of Attukal Bhagavathy temple in Thiruvananthapuram district is a phenomenon of sorts.
The pongaala takes place on the ninth day of the festival that takes place in the Malayalam months of Makaram / Kumbham (February / March). The ritual starts with an offering to Lord Ganapathi. Flattened brown rice, roasted white rice, betel leaf, areca nut, banana, jiggery, flower, incense, traditional lamp, bowl of water, rice measuring vessel are used as part of the pongaala ritual. The hearths of devotees are lighted only after the one inside the temple is lighted. The offerings include white rice, deserts made of jiggery and rice and theraly (a sweet made by steaming) and manda puttu. The pongaala will come to a conclusion with the sprinkling of holy water by the temple priests on the offerings prepared by the devotees.
The Valliyoorkkavu temple, located high in the Wayanad hills at Valliyoorkkavu, 3 km from Mananthavady town is dedicated to Goddess Bhagavathy. Here goddess is worshipped in three of her principal forms - Vana Durga, Bhadrakali and Jala Durga.
The annual 14 day arattu festival of this temple whose idol is believed to have been self-manifested is held in the month of March. Announcing the festival, the sword of Valliyooramma will be brought from the Palliyara Bhagavathy temple at Pandikkadavu near Mananthavady by the chief priest on the first day. Unlike other temple festivals, here the kodiyettu (the flag hoisting ceremony)is performed only on the seventh day of the festival by tribal chieftains.
Important rituals held during the festival include the oppana varavu, a procession from Cheramkode Bhagavathy temple at Kallody near Mananthavady will come to Valliyoorkavu temple. Adiyaras, a procession with tender coconut for abhishekam (ablution) marks the arattu of Valliyooramma. The festival concluded when the oppana varavu returns to Cheramkode Bhagavathy temple after the rudhirakkolam, a symbolic fight between Goddess and the demon king, Darika, in which the Bhagavathy wins.
The traditional ritual arts like Kalamezhuthum pattum, Eedum koorum (special dance performed by orcales) and Sopananritham will be performed during all the nights of the festival. The dances performed by the local tribals using native percussion instruments are another highlight of this festival.
Known as the festival of festivals, Thrissur Pooram has a tradition of more than 200 years. This spectacular event was started by Sakthan Thampuran, the erstwhile ruler of Kochi. Held on the Moolam asterism in the Malayalam month of Medam (April-May), festival related events take place at the Vadakkumnathan temple situated in the heart of Thrissur town and the adjoining Thekkinkadu ground.
The pooram festival mainly happens between two groups representing the geographic divisions of Paramekkavu and Thiruvambadi. They will compete in their respective presentations of richly caparisoned elephants, traditional orchestra called panchavadyam, the swift and rhythmic changing of brightly coloured and sequined parasols called kudamattom and the dazzling fireworks in the early morning hours are the festival highlights.
The procession taking the representation of the Goddess of Thiruvambadi to Brahmaswam Mutt; arrival of the procession to the mutt accompanied by panchavadyam called madathil varavu; the pooram setout of Paramekkavu temple by noon and the one-hour long chembada melam (melam means orchestra); Ilanjithara melam (orchestra held in front of the Ilanji tree); Thekkotirakkam ; meeting of the two temple groups of Thiruvambadi and Paramekkavu; Kudamattom (exchange of colourful parasols), the small-scale fireworks; the panchavadyam (traditional temple orchestra) at night; the major fireworks at early morning; the pakal pooram held on the next day; the fireworks following it and finally the conclusion of pooram festivities with the ceremonial departure called upacharam cholli piriyal are the main events of the pooram festival.
The goddesses of Thiruvambadi and Paramekkavu are believed to be taking part in the pooram. Though the presiding deity at Thiruvambadi is Lord Krishna, it is the second in importance deity of Goddess Bhagavati that takes part in the pooram. There are also eight other temples taking part, but some exclusive rights as part of pooram are vested with Paramekkavu and Thiruvambadi temples. Those rights include rights on the path surrounding the Vadakkumnathan temple and also fireworks and exchange of parasols.
The festivities on the main day commence with the arrival of poorams from eight temples. By 6.30 in the morning, the first pooram of Kanimangalam Sastha temple will arrives at the Vadakkumnathan temple, followed by others like Karamukku Bhagavathy, Choorakattukavu Bhagavathy, Naithilakattu Bhagavathy, Laloor Bhagavathy, Panayckambilli Sastha, Ayanthol Karthiyayani Bhagavathy, and Chembookavu Bhagavathy.
Considered as the mother of all pooram festivals in Kerala, Aarattupuzha Pooram is famous due to its sheer magnitude and grandeur. The Sree Sastha Temple at Arattupuzha, about 15 km from Thrissur is the venue of the festival. Held during the month of March, the eight-day long festival marks the visit of gods and goddesses from nearby temples to the Aarattupuzha Sastha temple. The seventh day of the pooram witnesses the percussion ensemble of Sastha, which will also have caparisoned elephants and brightly lit traditional temple torches called thee vetti.
Next day early morning is the grand spectacle, which will have 50 odd elephants carrying the replica of the deities of nearby temples, moving to the nearby field for the final assembly. The temple orchestra lends a majestic tenor to the extravaganza. Following this, the aarattu (ceremonial dip) in the nearby river is done for all the deities with the presiding deity of Aarattupuzha Sastha temple taking it in the end.
